I feel like the food blogulous was all a twitter upon the opening of KONG, the Asian restaurant in NoLIbs, and then there was this newspaper backlash to counter the buzz.  When we first went with friends, I was expecting small plates at high prices, a la Bar Ferdinan, and was pleasantly surprised to find the prices affordable, the portions almost too large, and the food delicious. The décor is also beautiful – you feel as though it was some interior designer’s dream project with the birdcage lamps, graphic photo wallpaper, and distressed walls.  I’ve since been back several times, as one can reliably find a seat at the eatery even late at night on a First Friday, unlike some of the neighboring gastro-pubs.
Recently I stopped in for lunch, lured by the placard promising a $10 3-course 30-minute meal. The place was empty when I entered, although a few diners came in as my meal progressed. This lunch deal is a solid one – a choice of soup, one of five vegetable sides, and a large entrée, almost too much food. Choices are varied, and feature items on the regular menu.
For lunch I had Pork Wonton Soup; slippery delicate folds of noodle with two little spheres of pork, Steamed Butter Lettuces with Crispy Shallots (I’ll get to that later), and Crispy Tofu with Spicy Tofu Sauce and Pickled Beans – a amazing dish balancing sweet and hot, spicy and fermented, crunchy and smooth.
One of my favorite items sounds like it shouldn’t work – the steamed lettuces with crispy shallots and oyster sauce. Surely, I thought the first time I ordered the dish; they must mean boc choy or some other green, not butter lettuce. Lettuce brings to mind the limp slime on the bottom of a plate after a hot sandwich has set atop, or peeled off a disappointing burger. But it is lettuce and the texture and fresh green flavor is a revelation, off set by the sweet brown sauce and savory crunch of shallots. I cannot stop thinking about this simple dish. To quote the internet: noms.
I am frankly puzzled by some of the negative reviews and the apparently lack of traffic in Kong. Although I didn’t care for the wings, for the most part each dish I try is delicious, with nuanced flavors and interesting textures and spices. The mixed drinks are most certainly pinky-out, with the cutesy names to match, but the beer is right on the price point (I hate paying $7 for a local beer at a fancy join). My partner is enamored with the pork three ways dumplings, I’ve enjoyed several of the noodle dishes I’ve sampled, and with the lunch special one is able to experience several items very inexpensively. You should check it out for yourself. Watch out though; the website yells at you.
KONG
702-704 North 2nd Street
www.eatatkong.com